The Expense Of Colour -

The Harm of synthetic dyes

When walking past the windows of H&M or Zara, have you ever wondered what goes into the different coloured textiles that you see? From a hot pink sweater, to a multi dyed dress, the expenses are bigger than you may have thought at first glance.

What creates the colours that swarm your closet are called synthetic dyes. These dyes are first referred to as Synthetic organic dyes as they are derived from an organic material such as oil. The organic name is then destroyed of “environmentally friendly” hope to add harsh chemicals for a range of colours, categorizing the dye as man made.

How Harmful Is It?

The impact of what goes into these colours were created unethically and hazardously. The process of dying garments begins with removing natural resources, to returning the majority of those resources as chemically infused. The industry uses two hundred tons of water per tonne of fabric which is then returned to the environment as toxic waste due to the synthetic dye processes. These ink-like substances are spilled into waterways, endangering surrounding water systems and ecosystems yet brands are not held accountable for the damage. Waste water disposal is seldom regulated, protecting big brands and factory owners accountability to this issue. The post-production substance containing mordants, residual dye, chemicals, and micro-fibres is frequently dismissed through pipes leaving factories untraceable and unaccountable of this event.

McFall-Johnsen, M. (2019, October 21). The fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and maritime shipping combined. here are the biggest ways it impacts the planet. Retrieved March 20, 2021, from https://www.businessinsider.com/fast-fashion-environmental-impact-pollution-emissions-waste-water-2019-10

All chemicals outsourced into water systems are still spreading around the world, today. Employees that work in direct contact with synthetic dyes are faced with exposure to toxic and potentially deadly chemicals, everyday. Factories expand into communities, not only affecting those who already get paid unsustainable and unfair wages, and work lengthy hours. In places of high export that manufacture these garments like Bangladesh and China, water sources are filled with chemicals that are unsafe to drink, touch, and are murderous to surrounding aquatic ecosystems due to the direct implication of synthetic dyes. In locations of this high pollution, health issues in people are rising and life expectancy is shortening. There is more to fast-fashion sweatshops than you may have thought, affecting whole communities, towns, cities, and even countries as the chemicals from your clothing spread.

Chinadialogue. (2018, November 26). Textile industry under pressure to detox fashion. Retrieved March 20, 2021, from https://www.sixdegreesnews.org/archives/25949/textile-industry-under-pressure-to-detox-fashion

What Can Be Done?

Unlike other things in the fast fashion production industry, finding a sustainable option for all clothing is harder than one may think. It is potentially not something that can be made more ethical by removing employees from toxic fumes, or using less environmentally harmful practices without compromising the quality of a garments colour. The argument is simple, with a not so simple answer; natural dyes or synthetic dyes?

You would think, “Of course, Natural Dyes”, but, in order to cover the industry with this practice, there would be sacrifice. To make it short and sweet, we either must use a chemical called mordants to sustain the life of natural colours, or consumers must come to peace with dull colours after a few washes. This is a debate that leaves no room for a quick and effective answer.

As consumers, most want the “best of the best”, and anything other than synthetic dyes just won’t cut it. We want the colour of our clothing to last, and not be required to apply any special treatment to aid in this. The answer to this is to use synthetic dyes, but how much longer can we continue polluting, and harming the environment alongside the people in it until we, as consumers, can settle for less?

Settling for less is simple; convert the industry to natural dyes from food scraps, seeds, bark, or even insects. We can leave it be with non-toxic dyes or instead, add mordants which sustain the life of the natural dyes colour, but this would mean it is no less harmful than synthetic dye if disposed of irresponsibly. This could become a reality with the right factory processing infrastructure to dispose safely of the chemical waste, yet this could also be a solution for the current issues within the disposal of synthetic dyes, needing no reason to convert to all natural dyes anyway. Factories lack these important steps in the direction of sustainability.

Unfortunately, any issues can arise in the conversion of the industry, making natural dyes a not so simple solution. Water consumption is still high in the dying process, and agricultural needs would need to be heightened as not only would agriculture be used for food, but for the newfound fashion industry as well. Thus, meaning more land, more water, and more employees that the industry might not be willing to pay. The answer lays upon a more responsible fashion industry rather than a perfect industry. You, as a consumer, are the pillars to the industry, thus the continuing of their ways of harm to the environment is driven by overconsumption. Some simple things you can do is purchase from brands of environmentally friendly practices, shop-second hand, or dye your own clothes out of food scraps like avocado pits to make a dusty pink, spinach to create lush green, or even red cabbage to make purple, making your old top brand new!

As there is no clear solution the industry may be able to deem as perfect in all of its touching issues, the advocation for such problems will drive the change. Spread the word, get crafty, and do your research to support the right retailers, so you, as the consumer can be a part of the solution!

Ps.

Here, I have a project of mine to inspire you to begin or continue your sustainable fashion journey! I created this shrug-like garment as a part of a Fashion Portfolio, made of repurposed, sheer fabric, dyed it a beautiful dusty pink with avocado pit scraps, and detailed the sleeve lining with flower dyed imprints. I printed real flowers onto the top with the use of the strong dye within flowers and the aid of a hammer for imprinting. Avocado pits is an especially wonderful option for natural dying as they contains tannin which acts as a mordant to sustain the life of its colour. I became inspired to reuse everything I could and find ways to steer away from being apart of the water pollution crisis, which I encourage you to embody! The concept of my design is a way of modernizing repurposing by creating a chic top with reused materials while also shining light on the harm of synthetic dyes! Get inspired!

Sincerely,

Emma Piercey

Works Cited

B., R. (2020, February 14). The true cost of colour: The impact of textile dyes on water systems. Retrieved March 20, 2021, from https://www.fashionrevolution.org/the-true-cost-of-colour-the-impact-of-textile-dyes-on-water-systems/

Environmental impacts of the fashion industry. (n.d.). Retrieved March 20, 2021, from https://www.sustainyourstyle.org/old-environmental-impacts